Not all tall stories are fake news. A case in point – our second visit to Zimanga in 2024 – when the world’s tallest land mammal gifted our guests with some singular photographic moments. Stand-out had to be the emotional, once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to witness (and photograph) a giraffe being born in the wild. This was shortly followed by a stunning sunlit pair of duelling males going neck and neck against the shadows for the ideal low-key action shot, a striking sunburst silhouette of that unmistakable profile at dusk and, finally, patience ultimately rewarded at one of the reserve’s famed nocturnal hides, a rare and much-prized night-time drinking shot. High times indeed…

You might expect things would come back down to earth somewhat after all that. Cue Zimanga’s big cats and several thrilling encounters with the reserve’s female lions and the new cheetah brothers. Beginning with the lions: it’s not a bad start when early in your first night hide session you get these apex predators stopping by. Two lionesses pitched up for one of our groups; lighting up the session and affording them the luxury of some winning shots from the off.

The other group, not so lucky at night, instead had the adrenaline rush of a race across the reserve one morning when a premium silhouette shot of lions was in the offing. Our guide had heard over the radio that lions were posing high on a big dam against the intense sunrise colours. It was uncertain we’d get there before they moved off or the sun was too high, especially when a surprise encounter with a side-striped jackal – not a common sighting – slowed us down for a moment. Losing precious minutes to bank some record shots of the canid for guests who’d never seen one before added piquancy to the chase. Thankfully both the gamble and side-hustle shots paid off and we got into position below the felines – the perfect angle for framing them – just in time.

This proved to be just the start of our fun photographing these felines. During our visit they’d taken a shine to a scenic spot on the Mkuze river where they would rest up for the day in between intense bursts of explosive playfighting. Our guests got them splashing through the shallows in hot pursuit of each other with tails flying and much swiping of massive paws on more than one occasion. The chance to ‘purr-fect’ action shots with repeat performances was lapped up eagerly by one lucky group and instantly declared a trip highlight.

To be fair our other group also had the lions fighting down in the river. In fact they got the best of the action when a rare old set-to suddenly broke out at dusk on one never-to-be-forgotten afternoon. The group had been busy photographing the lionesses waking up in the late afternoon while waiting for the action to begin. Unfortunately the driver of a second vehicle at the scene discovered he was stuck and required assistance from our guide at the precise moment the lions started their full-on boxing match. Almost as soon as the first vehicle was freed our own vehicle got stuck. Properly stuck. In truth the light was really too low by that point to effectively freeze the battle royal unfolding before us. Nevertheless… But with dark fast approaching the cavalry had to be called and our guests were safely led out of the river, paddling through the shallows with socks, shoes and camera bags held high, the eerie night sounds adding to their nervous tension. Later that evening, over stiff pre-dinner drinks, it was agreed that the twilight bush adventure in all honesty trumped the shots they’d missed.

Thankfully no feet got wet on the many days we photographed the cheetahs. Early in the trip the two brothers captivated as we positioned for shots against the fabulous blue shadows of the Lebombo mountains at dusk. Everyone is surprised when cheetah photography on Zimanga continues even after the sun has slipped away. Until, that is, they notice how the pupils of these cats become enlarged and so alert-looking. And then they happily push up their ISOs a little for some awesome portraits.

Most memorable perhaps was the last afternoon session when we found them getting ready to hunt. The ability to follow them – and go off-road – is both a privilege and a thrill (guides all the while being careful not to impact on either the hunters or their prey). When the brothers spotted some impala and immediately gave chase you could feel the tension rise until an alarm-calling antelope saved the day for the herd. We stayed with the cheetahs that evening until every drop of light was gone; following and photographing as they drank, jumped a stream, scent-marked trees and drank again. It was a fantastic farewell from the twosome and a fitting finale to our big cat captures on the reserve.

Bird photography is always a strong feature of our time on Zimanga, especially as several hides are designed to give your bird photography that extra edge. In addition to the customary action from the carrion-eating species at the scavenger hide (a reliable performer with lots of squabbling vultures once again) the waterbird photography at the lagoon hide was plentiful and varied. While the species we saw and photographed over the visit were too numerous to mention here, top billing went to the spotted eagle owl that turned up briefly on one of the overnight sessions. His brief cameo role was another rare but welcome surprise and means we have been fortunate to get good shots of owls after dark on both our visits to the reserve so far this year.

The cast of photogenic subjects does not end there. We also enjoyed photography of elephant bulls and rhinos at the dam and twice spent time in the river as the breeding elephant herd crossed and fed in the reeds. Then there was the morning we got the chance to photograph a puff adder, caught at the reserve’s recycling centre, being released back into the wild, the day the warthogs turned up at the Umgodi hide wearing oxpeckers on their heads like fascinators, the amorous white rhino bull, the tiny elephant calf, the huge breeding buffalo herd at night, the monkeys that came nervously to the Tamboti hide (a first to photograph them there for us), the comedic and characterful yellow-billed hornbills and much, much more.

But to see a giraffe being born. This remains for us the high-point of the visit. In all our almost 30 years of visiting the African bush it’s the first time one of us has been fortunate to get to see this. Such things are what being lucky enough to go on a safari is all about. Being there. In the wild. A part of something bigger. In the moment. Watching…and if you’re lucky enough and patient…photographing too..

Before we close the journal on this trip it just remains to curtsey and bow to all those who contributed to this tour’s success. Thank you to all on the reserve who helped make the stay so much fun, not least brilliant Zimanga head ranger Calvin Kotze, whose super-cool guiding made up for his sticky driving that afternoon in the river. Hurrahs aplenty also for Alice, Goodness and Bongi, the A-team at the homestead who fed us too well and made us feel so at home, and to lodge manager Elizabeth, who arrived each day with smiles (and refills for our drinks cupboard!).  

Last, but not least, thanks to our jolly and jaunty ‘camera’ crew – our two navy larks GF and RD whose salty humour spiced the trip, to webbed-footed photographer George aka AR, to sniper of the scavenger hide MH, to woman-in-black SM, and to night-hide ninja JR, aka ‘Hotlips’. You all truly sM*A*S*Hed it!